Most homeowners have never been through a roofing project. That means they don't know what's coming - the noise, the timeline, the mess during the work, or what the property should look like when the crew leaves. I've done thousands of roofing jobs across the Inland Empire over 35 years, and the customers who are happiest at the end are the ones who knew what to expect going in. This guide walks through the entire process - before, during, and after - with honest expectations rather than a polished version of reality.
Before the Project: What Happens First
The Estimate Visit
A legitimate roofing estimate starts with someone on your roof. Not a salesperson looking from the driveway - an actual roofer who climbs up, walks the surface, checks the flashing, inspects the valleys, looks at the condition of the existing material, and ideally checks the attic from inside for signs of moisture or deck damage.
At Thompson Roofing, I do the estimates personally. I'll spend 30 to 45 minutes at your property - on the roof, in the attic if accessible, and walking the perimeter to check gutters, fascia, and downspouts. After that, you'll get a written estimate that details exactly what we're proposing: materials by brand and product, scope of tear-off, underlayment specification, flashing scope, permit costs, timeline, and warranty terms.
Get at least three estimates from licensed contractors. When you compare them, look at the scope of work, not just the bottom number. The cheapest bid usually leaves something out that the others include. Learn more about what goes into a replacement estimate.
Choosing a Contractor
After you've gotten estimates and compared them, check each contractor's C-39 license on the CSLB website, verify their insurance certificates are current, and call at least two references. Look for a contractor who explains what they found on your roof without exaggerating - someone who tells you what's wrong, what's fine, and what can wait is more trustworthy than someone who makes everything sound urgent.
HOA Approval (If Applicable)
If your home is in an HOA - and many Inland Empire homes are - you'll need Architectural Review Committee approval before work begins. This typically means submitting a form with material specifications, color samples, and sometimes contractor information. Most HOA committees meet monthly, so budget 4 to 6 weeks for this step. Don't schedule your roofing job before you have HOA approval in hand.
Permits
Your contractor pulls the permit - this is part of their job, and the cost should be included in your estimate. In Riverside and San Bernardino counties, reroofing permits typically cost $200 to $500 and take a few days to process. Some jurisdictions offer over-the-counter permits that can be pulled same-day. The permit must be posted at the job site during the work, and the completed work will be inspected by the building department.
Material Ordering and Lead Time
Once you've signed a contract and the permit is in hand, materials need to be ordered. Standard materials - common shingle colors, standard concrete tile - are usually available within a few days from local suppliers. Specialty materials - specific tile profiles, custom metal colors, unusual shingle lines - can take 1 to 4 weeks. Your contractor should give you a realistic timeline that accounts for material availability. In busy seasons (spring and fall in the Inland Empire), material demand is higher and lead times may be longer.
Preparing Your Property
Before the crew arrives, there are things you should do to prepare:
- Move vehicles out of the driveway and away from the house. Roofing debris falls, and even careful crews can't prevent every nail or shingle scrap from reaching the ground. Park cars in the garage (if the driveway is being used for material staging) or on the street.
- Clear the perimeter. Move patio furniture, potted plants, grills, and anything else within 6 to 8 feet of the house. Debris, dust, and granules will reach the ground around the entire perimeter.
- Protect the attic. If you have items stored in the attic, cover them with tarps or old sheets. Tear-off work shakes loose dust and small debris that falls through the deck, even with experienced crews.
- Warn your neighbors. Let the adjacent neighbors know that a roofing project is happening, when it starts, and roughly how long it will last. Roofing is loud - there's no getting around it - and giving neighbors advance notice is common courtesy.
- Secure pets. Keep dogs and cats inside during the project. The noise is stressful for animals, the gate will be opened frequently, and roofing nails on the ground are a paw hazard.
- Plan for dust inside the house. Even with a solid roof deck, tear-off work vibrates the entire structure. Pictures on walls may shift, light fixtures may accumulate dust, and if you have open shelving, the items on it will get dusty. This is normal and temporary.
Take down any wall-mounted items near the ceiling that could be shaken loose by the work above. Remove anything fragile from high shelves. If you have a chandelier or hanging light fixture, it will shake during tear-off - if it concerns you, note it and we'll be careful in that area, but some vibration is unavoidable.
During the Project: What Each Day Looks Like
Day 1: Tear-Off
The crew typically arrives between 6:30 and 7:00 AM. In summer, we start early to get the most work done before the afternoon heat makes the roof surface dangerously hot. The first order of business is protecting your property - tarps go down around the perimeter, and a debris chute or dumpster is positioned.
Tear-off is the loudest and messiest part of the job. The old roofing material - shingles, tile, felt, nails, everything - gets stripped down to the deck. For an asphalt shingle roof, tear-off on a typical Inland Empire home takes most of a day. For tile roofs, tear-off takes longer because of the weight - tile has to be removed carefully and either stacked for reuse or loaded into the dumpster.
During tear-off, the crew inspects the deck. This is when we find rot, termite damage, broken boards, or deteriorated plywood. If deck repairs are needed, we'll let you know - sometimes we can give you a phone call with a photo and a price for the additional work. Deck repairs are not uncommon on older Inland Empire homes and typically add $500 to $4,000 depending on the extent of damage.
The goal on Day 1 is to get the old material off, repair any deck issues, and get the underlayment down before the crew leaves. We don't leave a bare deck exposed overnight - the underlayment provides a temporary waterproof barrier. If the job is large enough that we can't get underlayment down on the entire roof by end of day, we tarp the unfinished sections.
Roofing is one of the louder construction activities. Tear-off involves prying, scraping, and dropping heavy material into a dumpster. Installation involves nail guns, compressors, and cutting tools. If you work from home, plan to work from elsewhere during the project, or accept that it will be very loud inside the house for 1 to 3 days. Noise-canceling headphones help, but they won't eliminate the vibration and impact sounds that come through the structure.
Day 2 (and Beyond): Installation
With the deck prepped and underlayment down, installation begins. The pace depends on the material:
Asphalt shingles: A crew of 4 to 5 can typically install a standard residential shingle roof in 1 to 2 days. Starter strips go down first along the eaves and rakes, then shingle courses work upward from the eave to the ridge. Flashing gets installed around penetrations (pipes, vents, chimneys, skylights), in valleys, and at wall junctions. Ridge cap goes on last. A straightforward shingle job is usually complete in 2 days total (tear-off + install).
Concrete tile: Tile installation is slower because of the weight and precision required. Battens (horizontal wood strips) are installed over the underlayment, then tiles are laid course by course from eave to ridge. Each tile interlocks with its neighbors and is either nailed or clipped. Hip and ridge tiles are set with mortar or adhesive. A typical tile job runs 3 to 5 days total. More on tile installation.
Metal roofing: Standing seam metal panels are measured and often custom-fabricated on-site or pre-ordered to exact dimensions. Panels are secured with concealed clips and joined with crimped seams. A metal roof installation typically takes 3 to 5 days for a residential home.
Daily Schedule
In the Inland Empire, our crews typically work 7:00 AM to 4:00 or 5:00 PM during moderate weather. In summer, when roof surface temperatures exceed 150 degrees by midday, we start at 6:30 AM and may stop earlier in the afternoon for crew safety. We don't work in rain, and we don't start tear-off if there's a meaningful chance of rain within 48 hours. Santa Ana wind events can also shut down work - roofing in 50+ mph winds is dangerous and produces poor results.
What About Your Daily Life?
You can stay in your home during a roofing project. Most of our customers do. But be realistic about what that means: it's loud, there's vibration, dust will get inside, and the crew will be on your roof and around your property all day. You'll have limited use of your driveway during the project. Your water and power stay on - we may need an electrical outlet for tools, which we'll ask about in advance. You can come and go through your front door normally, but the area immediately around the house is a work zone.
After the Project: Cleanup, Inspection, and What's Next
Cleanup
Cleanup is part of the job - a non-negotiable part. When our crew finishes the roofing work, they clean up the property. This includes:
- Removing all debris, tarps, and scrap material. Everything goes in the dumpster, and the dumpster gets hauled away.
- Magnetic sweeping. A rolling magnet sweeps the driveway, walkways, yard, and perimeter to pick up roofing nails. Even with careful work, nails end up on the ground - the magnet catches them. We typically make two to three passes.
- Blowing off surfaces. The driveway, walkways, and patio get blown clean of granules, dust, and small debris.
- Checking gutters. Gutters get cleared of any debris that fell in during the project. Downspouts get checked to make sure they're flowing.
That said, some degree of mess persists for a day or two after the project. Granules from new shingles wash into gutters during the first rain - this is normal and decreases over time. You may find an occasional nail in the yard over the following weeks despite magnetic sweeping. If your landscaping was close to the house, some plants may have been stepped on or had debris fall on them. We try to minimize this, but roofing is heavy, physical work happening directly above your yard.
The Building Inspection
After the work is complete, your contractor calls for the building inspection. A city or county inspector comes out, looks at the roof (usually from a ladder at the eave, not always a full roof walk), and verifies that the work meets code. They check material installation, flashing details, fastener patterns, and underlayment at any visible areas. If the work passes, you'll get a signed permit card or a passed inspection in the building department's system. If there are corrections needed, the contractor makes them and calls for a re-inspection.
Keep the passed inspection documentation. It proves the work was done to code and permitted - this matters when you sell your home.
Your Warranty Package
After the project, you should receive two warranty documents: the manufacturer's material warranty (which your contractor registers on your behalf with the material manufacturer) and the contractor's workmanship warranty (which covers the installation itself). Keep both of these with your home records. Understand what each covers, what voids them, and how to make a claim if needed.
Post-Installation Maintenance
Your new roof needs maintenance - less than the old one, but it's not zero. Here's what to keep on your calendar:
- Clean gutters twice a year - before the rainy season (October/November) and after leaf drop. Clogged gutters back up water under roofing edges and cause damage.
- Trim tree branches that overhang or touch the roof. Keep a 6-foot minimum clearance. Branches scratch roofing surfaces, deposit debris, and provide critter access.
- Inspect after major storms. After Santa Ana winds or heavy rain, do a visual check from the ground. Look for debris accumulation, shifted materials, or anything that looks different. If something looks wrong, call for a professional look.
- Schedule a professional inspection every 2 to 3 years for a newer roof, or annually for a roof over 15 years old. A $200 to $350 inspection catches problems when they're small and cheap to fix.
- Don't ignore small problems. A cracked tile, a lifted flashing edge, a slow drip - these small issues become expensive problems if left alone. The cost to fix a small problem now is always less than the cost to fix the large problem it becomes later. Small repairs are part of responsible roof ownership.
After your first significant rain, check inside the house - especially the attic - for any signs of moisture. A properly installed roof should be completely dry inside. If you see anything, call your contractor immediately. Catching an installation issue during the first rain, while it's covered under the workmanship warranty, is the ideal time to address it. Don't assume a small drip will fix itself.
What Can Go Wrong - and How to Handle It
I'm going to be straight with you: roofing projects don't always go perfectly. Here are the most common issues and how they get resolved:
- Weather delays. Rain in the forecast means we delay the start. If rain arrives mid-project, we tarp everything and wait it out. This is frustrating but necessary - installing roofing in rain produces a bad result. In the Inland Empire, this is mostly a November through March concern.
- Deck damage discovered during tear-off. About 1 in 4 older roofs has some deck damage that wasn't visible before tear-off. Rot, termites, broken boards - it has to be fixed before the new roof goes on. This adds cost ($500 to $4,000 typically) and may add a day to the timeline. A good contractor shows you the damage, explains the fix, and gives you a price before proceeding.
- Nail pops and debris. Despite magnetic sweeping, nails can hide in landscaping, lawn, and gravel. Walk your perimeter in hard-soled shoes after the project and check carefully. If you find nails, let your contractor know - they should come back and do another sweep.
- Minor cosmetic issues. Small marks on stucco from ladders, a landscaping plant that got stepped on, dust on windows. A good contractor addresses these - ask them during the project, don't wait until after they've left.
- A leak after installation. Rare with a competent crew, but it happens. Call your contractor immediately. This is a workmanship warranty issue and should be fixed at no charge. Do not attempt to fix it yourself or hire someone else - that can void your warranty.
Ready to Get Started?
Now you know what to expect. The process is straightforward but it helps to go in prepared. If your Inland Empire home needs a new roof - or if you're not sure and want an honest assessment - give me a call. I'll walk you through exactly what your roof needs and what the project will look like. No surprises, no hidden costs, no pressure. That's how I've run Thompson Roofing for 35 years. Request a free estimate or call us at (951) 688-9469.